{"id":2515,"date":"2025-01-14T11:35:58","date_gmt":"2025-01-14T10:35:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/transilvania-bois.iti-conseil.com\/wine-rises-in-the-east-in-romania-too-3-3-by-florence-monferran\/"},"modified":"2025-04-23T17:36:54","modified_gmt":"2025-04-23T15:36:54","slug":"wine-rises-in-the-east-in-romania-too-3-3-by-florence-monferran","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.transilvaniabois.com\/en\/wine-rises-in-the-east-in-romania-too-3-3-by-florence-monferran\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00ab Wine Rises in the East \u2013 in Romania Too \u00bb #3\/3 \u2013 by Florence Monferran"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"658\" src=\"https:\/\/transilvania-bois.iti-conseil.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/le-vin-se-leve-a-lest-en-roumanie-aussi-florence-monferran-3-1024x658.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2190\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.transilvaniabois.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/le-vin-se-leve-a-lest-en-roumanie-aussi-florence-monferran-3-1024x658.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.transilvaniabois.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/le-vin-se-leve-a-lest-en-roumanie-aussi-florence-monferran-3-300x193.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.transilvaniabois.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/le-vin-se-leve-a-lest-en-roumanie-aussi-florence-monferran-3-768x494.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.transilvaniabois.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/le-vin-se-leve-a-lest-en-roumanie-aussi-florence-monferran-3.jpg 1400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A New Generation Takes the Helm<\/h3>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br\/>From the 2010s onwards, Romania\u2019s viticultural revival has rested on new owners, engineers, managers, and winemakers\u2014Romanian through and through. Trained in Italy, France, New Zealand, and Chile, fluent in English and full of drive, this generation is reclaiming its vinous destiny. In ancient vineyard lands, abandoned plots are being revived with spades and bulldozers\u2014rebuilding even the roads.   <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Speaking to Th\u00e9odore (like the Eastern patriarch), Darius (Persian emperor), Nicola\u00ef (Russian tsar), and Ovidiu (Latin poet) feels symbolic. They encapsulate the rich mix of cultures in Romania\u2019s winemaking story\u2014and they are writing its future.  <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Three standout encounters. Licorna Wines, in the Dealu Mare DOC, exemplifies the Romanian model\u2019s success. La Salina, near Cluj in the Transylvanian IG, and Jelna Wines, in the Lechinta DOC, are also rising stars. With a focus on both local and international varieties, these small-scale (26\u201342 ha) premium producers are gaining international recognition. Their approaches to emerging organic practices differ, but they share a strategy: oenotourism as a gateway to the world.      <\/p>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Licorna Wines \u2013 Under the Sign of Perfection<\/h3>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Born in the magical Dealu Mare from a dream in 1909, Licorna sits above Budureasca, one of Romania\u2019s largest estates. Manager Bogdan Anghel greets visitors warmly atop the hillside. Passionate about international grapes and long-ageing wines, he is renowned both at home and abroad for the purity of his winemaking. He crafts elegant whites in barrel, but now focuses on reds. \u201cWe\u2019ve raised our standards. Dealu Mare wines need time,\u201d he says.     <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Together with oenologist Gabriel L\u0103cureanu, known as the pope of the Feteasc\u0103 grape, they continue working with Romania\u2019s heritage varieties. \u201cI believe Feteasc\u0103 Alb\u0103 has real potential.\u201d Though he still makes traditional Muscats, including T\u0103m\u00e2ioas\u0103 Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103, market demand has declined. He is also experimenting with B\u0103tut\u0103 Neagr\u0103, aiming to create a benchmark Romanian ros\u00e9.   <\/p>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">La Salina \u2013 Salt of the Wine<\/h3>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Near Cluj-Napoca in northwest Romania, vineyards terrace the hillsides shared with grazing sheep. Below lies Turda\u2019s historic salt mines, used by the Dacians and now repurposed as a major tourist and wellness site.  <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Winemaker and manager Ovidiu Maxim has been at La Salina since its founding in 2011. \u201cWe cleared the land, prepped the soil, then built everything you see,\u201d he recounts. Over 42 hectares on the captivating Durg\u0103u hills, his international and Romanian experience\u2014especially in New Zealand\u2014shines through in precision and attention to detail.<br\/>He highlights Transylvania\u2019s signature acidity, which gives wines freshness and a distinctive character. His Feteasc\u0103 wines are balanced, with floral and spicy notes. The estate\u2019s Chardonnays and Sauvignons are outstanding and gaining recognition.        <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La Salina\u2019s Chardonnay Barrique, aged in 500L and 225L barrels from the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.tonnellerievlad.com\/\">Romanian Vlad cooperage<\/a>, recently won double gold and best in show at the Brussels World Competition\u2014a crowning achievement for Ovidiu. The estate is beginning to export, notably to Canada, and is expanding its sparkling wine production. \u201cWe have a great terroir, good varieties (Chardonnay), and a promising market.\u201d   <\/p>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">To the Far North \u2013 Jelna Wines<\/h3>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Jelna, an authentic Saxon wine village (Weindorfer) in the Carpathians near Romania\u2019s northern border, once relied entirely on wine for its local economy. While it\u2019s traditionally white wine territory, reds are gaining ground. Tasting reserve Pinot Noirs with young oenologist Darius Pripon proves the point.    <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Trained in Cluj, then Valencia, Italy, and New Zealand (Alan Scott), and at Alira in Romania, Darius brings broad international expertise\u2014and a commitment to sustainability. Everything had to be rebuilt in this now wild, bear-populated region with no infrastructure. For him, this meant starting with \u201cpure land\u201d. His ambition? \u201cNot to be the best, but to be unique. We know Transylvania\u2019s potential\u2014we want to make exactly what the terroir allows.\u201d<br\/>On these volcanic mountains, the soil\u2019s blue clay is hard to drain but protects against water stress, offering minerality and rare energy.    <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">With Nicola\u00ef, an Italian-trained cellar master, Darius crafts wines using both wild and selected yeasts depending on the vintage. His Sauvignon Blanc is a showstopper\u2014multi-awarded in competitions.<br\/>His Feteasc\u0103 wines, both white and red, are subtle and beautiful. One standout: \u201cTria\u201d, a blend of all three Feteasc\u0103 types, aged in oak and acacia barrels. Everything is sold as premium\u2014no supermarket channels. An export-exclusive range, Navicella, is marketed solely in Japan.      <\/p>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Differing Views on Organic Practices<\/h3>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">These meticulous winemakers have varying stances on organic cultivation. Bogdan Anghel rejects it outright: too risky on just 30 hectares, too unreliable for yields. Ovidiu Maxim is hesitant. The local conditions are challenging: \u201cWe always have some form of mildew or powdery mildew,\u201d he notes. His first trial\u2014a remote Riesling plot\u2014is now certified organic, but the final call rests with the owners.<br\/>Darius Pripon, educated in biodynamics in New Zealand and on Domaine Bogdan, works with Vlad, a vineyard manager with five years of organic experience in Italy. Certification is not a priority. \u201cFor our generation, respecting nature is natural\u2014we don\u2019t need to label or market it. We strive to maintain balance.\u201d That includes coexistence with grape-loving bears on the \u201cDealu Negru\u201d (black hill), which threaten late harvests. In the cellar, traditional Transylvanian music plays as wine ferments.<br\/>Beyond winemaking, sustainability drives innovation: solar panels, 4 hectares of man-made lakes to preserve freshness, and 62 hectares of forest planted five years ago to create air currents.               <\/p>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Oenotourism as a Shared Vision<\/h3>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The ambition to reach an international audience is growing. Bogdan Anghel is enthusiastic about building a hotel and restaurant at Licorna, beside the charming original building. Traditions and legends linger over these breathtakingly green hills\u2014though Bucharest is just an hour away. \u201cThat\u2019s a key market for us. We\u2019re growing the tourism side. Half my visitors are foreign\u2014mainly Americans.\u201d    <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The ambition to reach an international audience is growing. Bogdan Anghel is enthusiastic about building a hotel and restaurant at Licorna, beside the charming original building. Traditions and legends linger over these breathtakingly green hills\u2014though Bucharest is just an hour away. \u201cThat\u2019s a key market for us. We\u2019re growing the tourism side. Half my visitors are foreign\u2014mainly Americans.\u201d  <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Now, business tourism brings corporate teams from multinationals for tastings, tours, and relaxation. A restaurant near the salt mines has been renovated, and a luxury 100-room hotel is under construction at the estate\u2019s equestrian centre.   <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In Jelna, the Carpathian foothills rise from volcanic ash. A 12<sup>th<\/sup>-century Saxon church revealed a 1285 Giotto mosaic, a copy of the Vatican\u2019s Navicella, in 2016. Around this symbolic piece, the winery created a signature wine range. A discreetly luxurious complex invites visitors to rest and restore: hotel, restaurant, vast pool, spa, all overlooking mountains, lakes, and vines.     <\/p>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Bringing Vision to Fruition<\/h3>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Wine truly is rising in the East. As geopolitics shifts eastward, wine becomes a tool of European integration. Western capital helped replant vineyards with international grapes, restructure cellars, and improve quality. Local traditions added originality. Now, oenotourism links wine to flagship cities and cultural landmarks: Tarnave with cultural capital Sibiu, Moldavia with its colourful wooden monasteries, and Dobrogea with the Danube Delta and the Black Sea.    <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">How can Romania elevate the global reputation of its expressive, characterful white and red wines? With limited exports, the next step is to bring these bottles to our tables\u2014along with their tumultuous history, complex culture, and the passion of their makers. Often overlooked or misunderstood, these Eastern European lands\u2014like Romania\u2014welcome us with open arms, a fresh start, the wisdom of hardship, and the hope of finally stepping into the spotlight after thirty years of effort.  <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Photographs \u00a9<a href=\"https:\/\/lesclosdemiege.fr\/\"> Florence Monferran<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A New Generation Takes the Helm From the 2010s onwards, Romania\u2019s viticultural revival has rested on new owners, engineers, managers, and winemakers\u2014Romanian through and through. Trained in Italy, France, New Zealand, and Chile, fluent in English and full of drive, this generation is reclaiming its vinous destiny. In ancient vineyard lands, abandoned plots are being [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":2191,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2515","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-non-classifiee"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>\u00ab Wine Rises in the East \u2013 in Romania Too \u00bb #3\/3 \u2013 by Florence Monferran - Transilvania Bois<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.transilvaniabois.com\/en\/wine-rises-in-the-east-in-romania-too-3-3-by-florence-monferran\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u00ab Wine Rises in the East \u2013 in Romania Too \u00bb #3\/3 \u2013 by Florence Monferran - Transilvania Bois\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A New Generation Takes the Helm From the 2010s onwards, Romania\u2019s viticultural revival has rested on new owners, engineers, managers, and winemakers\u2014Romanian through and through. Trained in Italy, France, New Zealand, and Chile, fluent in English and full of drive, this generation is reclaiming its vinous destiny. 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